French bakeries are dangerous places. You walk in with the purest of intentions – ‘I’ll just grab a baguette’ – and the next thing you know, you’re standing in front of the glass display case choosing something for dessert. The rows of pastries behind that counter bewitch me every time – chocolate glazes, juicy raspberries, croissants still warm from the oven.
After over twenty years in Gascony, I completely understand why the French take their pastries so seriously. Every town and every patisserie has its own speciality, and the whole experience has a lovely ritual to it. You step inside, offer a cheerful ‘Bonjour !’, make your choice, and leave carrying a small cardboard box tied with ribbon as if you’ve just been handed the crown jewels. Sometimes I even make it all the way home before opening it.
My 7 Current Favourites
Ispahan
A glorious creation by Pierre Hermé while at Ladurée, the Ispahan combines delicate rose, juicy raspberry and fragrant lychee – a luxurious burst of floral and fruity elegance. Apparently a favourite at the Élysée Palace – if it’s good enough for them, it’s certainly good enough for me.
Russe
Created in 1925 in Oloron-Sainte-Marie by Adrien Artigarrède, this local speciality is a light almond biscuit filled with smooth praline and hazelnuts. Finished with a delicate dusting of icing sugar. Don’t be fooled by its discreet appearance – it’s well worth the detour.
Pastis landais
A rum-scented brioche from Maison Laborde follows a cherished family recipe dating back to 1948. Soft and golden, it’s flavoured with rum (and sometimes vanilla or fleur d’oranger) and topped with crisp sugar crystals. Distinct from the aniseed drink of the same name, it’s a generous, comforting taste of the Landes.
Gâteau Basque
The classic cake of the Basque Country, with its crisp, crumbly golden crust and rich filling. I have a preference for the black cherry version, though the traditional almond pastry cream is equally delicious. Either way, it delivers pure, comforting indulgence in every slice.
Citrus Finger
One glance at the description – citron sponge, kaffir lime and kalamansi – and my resolve crumbled faster than a mille-feuille. This finger cake is a refreshing explosion of citrus that perfectly balances sweet and tart. Pure pleasure in every bite.
Coffee or Chocolate Éclair
A timeless classic: crisp choux pastry filled with rich coffee cream and topped with glossy coffee icing. There is simply no elegant way to eat one, although that has never stopped me. The only dilemma – coffee or chocolate?
Macarons
These delicate French jewels offer a crisp outer shell, soft chewy centre and luscious buttercream or jam filling. Their pretty pastel colours hint at the array of flavours inside, from classic to inventive. A small, luxurious treat that never fails to feel special.
Strategy
Don’t be caught off-guard – always have a strategy. I scan the display and head straight for anything with raspberries, chocolate or citrus. Unless, of course, something too pretty to resist catches my eye first, which is exactly how I discovered the Ispahan.
What about you? If you could only pick one thing from that glass case right now, what would it be? Join my newsletter and let me know what you’d choose.
And yes, scenes like this – the Sunday morning queue that stretches out the door and down the street, the ribbon-tied boxes, the quiet joy of choosing something small and beautiful – have a habit of finding their way into my novels.
Hilary McGrath is an Irish writer living in Gascony, France. She shares the places, flavours and moments that sometimes make their way into her novels.